A trip to Santa Agnes

This farmland is filled with the almond trees that give this town its yearly harvest and fill the plain with clouds of almond blossom in February. The image of Santa Agnes spilling over with blossom covered trees, the pale pink contrasting with the lush green hills and red earth is often used to portray Ibiza’s rural side and to draw peoples attention to the beauty of the richly fertile, undeveloped north.

If you’re exploring the north of the island then it's definitely easiest to do so in your own vehicle. But if you are using public transport then you can find your way to Santa Agnes via the number 30 bus which runs from Eivissa (Ibiza Town) and San Antonio twice a day. Be warned that the bus runs to a rather vague notion of time, it may well turn up 20 minutes late and the driver may well profess complete surprise that he has any passengers wanting to go to this tiny quiet town at all. I took the precaution of telling the driver that I was returning that evening on the 9pm bus just to increase the chances of the bus actually returning to get me...it did come back eventually, better late than never!

However you decide to travel to Santa Agnes keep your eyes open on the way because the journey through the thickly forested hills along winding hairpin roads is absolutely stunning, especially when the road veers towards the sea and you get a glimpse of the beautiful dramatic coastline.

Some people may come to the village to see the church or the almond trees but the majority of visitors come here for the hiking trail that start from the village and meander through the surrounding woodland to the very edge of the coastal cliffs which have unparalleled ocean views. This hike also takes you to two extremely well hidden beaches and the rocky headland Cap Negret.

The rugged trail and beaches are only accessible by foot but Cap Negret can be reached by car, just follow the Cami des Pla de Coruna road out of the village past farmhouses and land until you reach the Las Puertos des Cielo (the gates of heaven) eco restaurant tucked in under the trees. Here you can stop for a drink and a bite to eat with an amazing view, walk to the very edge of the cliffs and look out on unbroken ocean views and down onto the little island of Ses Margalides. A short walk from the restaurant you will also find the gated archaeological site of Ses Penya Esbarrada, the remains of a 12th century Muslim home, there’s not much information here but it’s worth a quick wander.

Back in the village be sure to take a walk around the church; a squat, whitewashed building dating back to 1806, unusual in Ibiza for its lack of covered porch. It's sometimes left open for visitors and is simply and sparsely decorated inside.

Across from the church sits Sa Palmera restaurant, open since 1969 this place has a beautiful courtyard in which its rustic tables are arranged around trees, barrels and dry stone walls. The menu focuses heavily on hearty meat and fish dishes including several paellas. The setting is lovely and the menu has pictures of the area in full almond blossom season.

Across the road sits smaller, friendlier Can Cosmi Restaurant and bar with it’s simpler cheaper menu of bocadillos, tapas and according to the guide books the best Spanish omelette (tortilla) in Ibiza, go judge for yourself and sit on the raised terrace with a pretty view of the church.

There is no shred of nightlife in Santa Agnes, no bars, banks, atms, tabacs, or any other kind of shops so if you are coming here for a day of hiking make sure you stock up on water and supplies ahead of time.

If you are exploring the north of the island do put Santa Agnes on your itinerary, if not for the village itself then definitely for the beautiful views over the patchwork plains of farmland and the stunning coastal cliffs and ocean view.